Paragraph by paragraph, he’s still a joy to read, conveying the deep satisfaction of, say, experimenting to achieve a sourdough bread that’s wholesome but still airy.
The problem for Pollan is that his argument, while robust, is relatively short: cultures and societies that cook more of their own food are generally thinner, healthier and happier...Clearly his thesis needs fattening up a bit.
Pollan is rather obsessed by authenticity in food, setting up the industrial food process as the Visigoths rampaging across the plain to mount a final assault...At this point it all gets, well, a little overcooked.
A delightful chronicle of the education of a cook who steps back frequently to extol the scientific and philosophical basis of this deeply satisfying human activity.
...Mr Balzer concludes that, since the 1980s, fewer and fewer people have been cooking their evening meal...Mr Pollan is keen for this trend to be reversed and his book is a hymn to why people should be enticed back into the kitchen.
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